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As Black Friday looms, some in the fashion industry take aim at overconsumption

A growing number of textile makers have begun to embrace standards for sustainability, say experts. But an analysis by Textile Exchange indicates the sector will not meet its targets for reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 2030 unless production of new clothes falls. Beyond climate, its work shows reining in production could also preserve water, limit pollution and slow ecosystem loss.  

UNEP is collaborating with Textile Exchange and the textile industry to reduce the volume of clothes produced while ensuring that textile value chain players, including workers, who are largely in developing countries, are consulted and not negatively affected.  

This follows the recent “underconsumption core” trend on social media platform TikTok, where creators showcase how they’re buying less and better. A fashion and lifestyle magazine called the trend “a pleasing antidote to the constant pressure to buy more on social media”.    

Central to addressing overconsumption, is confronting fashion's emphasis on newness, according to The Sustainable Fashion Communication Playbook from UNEP and UN Climate Change. One of the Playbook’s principles is to eradicate messages encouraging overconsumption. Instead, it calls for campaigns, fashions shows and social media content to promote circular solutions, demonstrate alternative models of success, and redirect aspiration to sustainable lifestyles.    

Each year, more fashion brands engage on the topic of overconsumption, either by abstaining from Black Friday discounts, shutting down their stores for the day, or donating a percentage of profits to charity.  

Last year, Re-Action Collective, a group of independent outdoor retailers, launched Citizen Friday as a counter narrative to consumerism, inviting people to “repair, share and get outside.”  

“Change is happening, which is very encouraging,” says Tonda. “UNEP invites all value chain actors – be they textile companies, governments, financial institutions or consumers – to join hands and scale up action together at the pace needed.”  

Contact information: To learn more, please contact Bettina Heller, Programme Lead, Textiles, UNEP,  bettina.heller@un.org.  

The UNEP Textile Initiative provides strategic leadership and encourages sector-wide collaboration to accelerate a just transition towards a sustainable and circular textile value chain. To stay updated on UNEP's textile work, and broader developments in the textile sector, sign up to the monthly newsletter. 

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